Is a 10-year-old racket good enough?

If you are just trying out the sport to see if it’s for you, or you are a recreational player who just plays for fun, then the answer is yes. If you find out that you want to play more, then I would recommend a carbon racket. A racket with a steel shaft and aluminum head is significantly heavier than a carbon racket (about 10 grams). 

Badminton rackets have undergone enormous technological development every single year, so if the racket is more than 10 years old, you will notice a big difference with newer models. It is also important to consider whether you want to buy a used racket when you don’t know what condition it is in. It can look very good but may have been hit on the floor or against a partner, which can cause an invisible crack. Then it can break in a completely innocent hit. There is no guarantee on used rackets, and the price difference up to a new racket is not so great. There are always deals to be found. Also note that carbon becomes “softer” after use and thus the quality deteriorates after a while.

What is the life span of a racket?

If it is not exposed to temperature changes (must not lie in the car during the winter) and damage (hit on the floor or against a partner, or thrown), then it can last for several years. Nevertheless, competitive players will replace their rackets after 2-3 years. They play a lot and want to have the latest technology, while the carbon gradually breaks down with each hit and the stiffness of the shaft is greatly reduced after a time.

Which racket should I choose?

The most important thing you need to know when choosing a racket besides price, weight, stiffness, and balance point.

If you’re in doubt, a medium stiff racket with a medium balance point is always a safe choice.

Weight

weight matters for how quickly you can move the racket and thus the maximum speed you can hit the ball with. One might think that a light racket would be the smartest choice, but it’s not that simple. When a racket is made lighter, its strength and stability are reduced. Fortunately, technological developments have made it possible to create stronger frames and more stable constructions. Single players will often choose stability, which means that the racket then weighs a little more and thus gets a slight reduction in speed. If you are a defensive doubles player who stands a lot at the front, low weight is important to increase the speed of the hits. In mixed and doubles, the person who stands behind often chooses a slightly heavier racket. Although in doubles one should rotate back and forth, it is still usual for pairs to have a player who prefers to stand at the back.

Stiffness

The racket is either extra stiff, stiff, medium stiff, or soft.

What determines which flexibility you should choose depends on your swing speed (the speed of your hand/your arm when you hit the ball). The greater swing speed you can perform, the stiffer racket you can choose. If you have trouble getting speed and power in the hit, you can choose a more flexible racket. 

• Stiff shafts: will bend back very quickly. It gives a quick response, lots of power, and good control which is important for a top player. Stiff shafts require good technique with high swing speed and explosive wrist action. 
• Medium stiff shafts: are softer and give you a helping hand in the hit since you get an extra flex. Medium stiff and rackets are good for players who need a little extra help in the hit and who are perhaps a little too slow in the footwork.
• Flexible shafts: will take longer to straighten out again, which gives worse response and less control. For top players with high swing speed and explosive wrist, high flexibility means they hit the ball while the shaft is still on the way to straighten out, and thus they lose a lot of power in the shot. Therefore, top players should not have a flexible shaft, but it can benefit newer players.

Balance point

It is the point on the shaft where the racket is balanced (neither tipping up nor down), measured from the handle, without strings and with the original grip. Note that the balance point is affected by the overgrip, the thickness of the string.

• Head-light: (285-290 mm) rackets provide a faster swing but not length or power in the shot. They are good in terms of defensive play (picking up smashes) and net play. Most used among doubles players and recreational players who mostly play doubles. Also used by single players who have an exceptionally good swing speed and technique (net placements, finger and wrist disguises, flick smash, etc.) and who are not dependent on the power a head-heavy racket gives.
• Medium: (290-295 mm) balanced rackets are suitable for most people. They are something in between head-heavy and head-light rackets. Enough weight to generate power and good shots. Light enough to provide control, defense against smashes, and for net play. An all-around racket that suits most play styles and levels. 
• Head-heavy: (300 mm) rackets often have a higher weight which increases the energy you can transfer to the shot to achieve powerful smashes and clears. Head-heavy gives more length in the shot but depends on good technique and you can often get tired faster in the arm and wrist. It will be heavier to move from a defensive to an offensive position. Preferred by offensive single players and offensive doubles players who mostly stay at the back of the court. However, offensive doubles players often choose a lighter racket with the balance point further forward.

Don’t forget to use the discount!

Shoes

Footwear is the most important to avoid injuries. Generally, we say that an indoor court shoe is not necessarily good for badminton, but a badminton shoe is good for all indoor sports. It is important that the shoe is stable and that the sole has a pattern that goes in several directions to grip the surface as best as possible.

In badminton, you move in many directions, and the shoe must be able to withstand that. Badminton requires a lot of sudden movements, turns, jumps, landings, stops, and lunges. A good badminton shoe has shock absorption both in the forefoot and in the heel. Significant shock absorption in the front is essential considering all the lunges a player makes. Badminton shoes are reinforced around the ankle to prevent sprains and are particularly reinforced on the outer side of the forefoot to keep you stable during lunges and all quick lateral movements. Many of the insoles consist of a special foam that allows the sole to recover after each step, thus not deforming for a long time. As a result, the feet feel fresher for much longer. This is necessary in a tournament with many matches.

Running shoes are strongly discouraged. They are often made of fabric, and the pattern underneath is designed for running forward without lateral movements. This makes it easier to roll your ankles. Due to the thin fabric and lack of reinforcement on the front side, the shoe will tear quickly.

The lifespan of a shoe depends entirely on how much it is used and how it is worn. If you play more than three times per week, it is recommended to have two pairs of shoes to switch between at the same time and to renew your shoe wardrobe once a year. 

Personally, and from experience, I believe that shoes are more important than anything else in badminton. Poor footwear can cause chronic problems with the hips, back, and knees.